First off you will need a either a crank pulley remover (which is a 50 mm size) or a strong impact gun.. atleast 1200 lbs.. you will also need a good pry bar and long extentions.

first thing you will wanna do is remove your passanger side tire
once removed you will need to remove the cover

I circled the tabs that need to be removed in red

once tabs are removed you can pull down the cover just enough to get out of the way to see the crank pulley.

I would first start with loosening that nut first (19 mm bolt)
once loosen you will need to move on to removing the belt out of the way
in order to do so you will need to loosen the pulley tentioner

I circled in red the tentioner area you need to loose.. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT!! only loosen it up alittle
once loose the circle area in blue is the actual tentioner, what i did is use a 14 mm wrench and the small bar that slid over it to pull it down like a lever the arrow shows that the tentioner is to go up in that direction so you will be pulling downward.. ( hope that makes sense )
once removed begin removing the crank pulley bolt make sure not to loose the key that is in it (its a triangle looking thing inside the crank pulley hole where the nut was located)
once removed you can place your new pulley in you will need to place the key in at the same time it may not slide in very easy so alittle trick is to get it on as much as possible then place the nut back in and start tightening it.. ( it should be easy to tighten up if it is really difficult then you didnt get the key in correctly of its binding up somewhere)
once its tighten enough without the crank pulley rotating the engine
install the belt.. make sure you install it correctly (may be a good time to replace it with a new one)
once belt is installed tight the tentioner nut that was loosen earlier.. it should be around 30 ft lbs if you want to get technical.. but just tight will work (spark plug tight)
now you will want to move back down to the crank pulley.. here you will want to tighten the bolt to 181 ft lbs.. ( if you have a impact gun it will work perfect ) reason why i say that is most aftermarket crank pulleys dont have an area to lock it in place to tighten it up ( unless you have a manual trany which makes it alot easier all together)

now you can sit back and enjoy a quicker engine response.. stay tuned for the power steering and altenator pulley installs..

So the plus and minus between the 2
bosch costs more depending on where you go
bosch felt like it put out more in the higher RPMs.. (since I have the hondata reflash at about 7200 where redline use to be I notice a slight more kick then what I did with the denzos)..
the denzos have a better cold start
also felt the denzos last alittle longer.. not sure if its due to my custom grounding plate or not.
my conclusion
per butt dyno the denzos are good if you are looking for alittle more long lasting kick but dont cut it in the high RPM range.. if you are a habitual spark plug swapper regardless of what the book says for changing like myself then the bosch are up your alley. Soon I will be getting the pulstar plugs and will give a 3rd opinion on that as well.. Feel free to ask me about this topic and keep it sparking!!