First off you will need a either a crank pulley remover (which is a 50 mm size) or a strong impact gun.. atleast 1200 lbs.. you will also need a good pry bar and long extentions.

first thing you will wanna do is remove your passanger side tire
once removed you will need to remove the cover

I circled the tabs that need to be removed in red

once tabs are removed you can pull down the cover just enough to get out of the way to see the crank pulley.

I would first start with loosening that nut first (19 mm bolt)
once loosen you will need to move on to removing the belt out of the way
in order to do so you will need to loosen the pulley tentioner

I circled in red the tentioner area you need to loose.. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT!! only loosen it up alittle
once loose the circle area in blue is the actual tentioner, what i did is use a 14 mm wrench and the small bar that slid over it to pull it down like a lever the arrow shows that the tentioner is to go up in that direction so you will be pulling downward.. ( hope that makes sense )
once removed begin removing the crank pulley bolt make sure not to loose the key that is in it (its a triangle looking thing inside the crank pulley hole where the nut was located)
once removed you can place your new pulley in you will need to place the key in at the same time it may not slide in very easy so alittle trick is to get it on as much as possible then place the nut back in and start tightening it.. ( it should be easy to tighten up if it is really difficult then you didnt get the key in correctly of its binding up somewhere)
once its tighten enough without the crank pulley rotating the engine
install the belt.. make sure you install it correctly (may be a good time to replace it with a new one)
once belt is installed tight the tentioner nut that was loosen earlier.. it should be around 30 ft lbs if you want to get technical.. but just tight will work (spark plug tight)
now you will want to move back down to the crank pulley.. here you will want to tighten the bolt to 181 ft lbs.. ( if you have a impact gun it will work perfect ) reason why i say that is most aftermarket crank pulleys dont have an area to lock it in place to tighten it up ( unless you have a manual trany which makes it alot easier all together)

now you can sit back and enjoy a quicker engine response.. stay tuned for the power steering and altenator pulley installs..

The first thing you have to do is check your vacuum routing. On the underside of your hood there should be a vacuum diagram. If there isn’t a diagram under there, there is one in a Helms, Chilton’s, or Haynes manual for your car (If you don’t have one already, it is suggested that you buy one before beginning). Remember, ANY extra air will confuse the ECU. Check for cracked or bad vacuum hoses. If in doubt, just replace the damage hose; they aren’t very expensive. The PCV valve could also be the culprit. Take it out and examine it. If it is cracked it could be causing a vacuum leak. Replace the piece if you aren’t completely sure that it’s okay (the Helms / Chilton’s / Haynes manuals tell you how to check it).

Next, check to see that your throttle plate is closed all the way. Take your intake off at the TB and check to see that nothing is blocking the plate. If nothing is in the way and it isn’t closed all the way, loosen your throttle cable. Check to see if the nuts holding the TB and the IM on are tight, this was the source of my idle problem. If they are loose, tighten them. After that, check the idle screw. It’s on the top of the TB right next to the red vacuum line in the first picture. It’s a flat-tip screw and most TB’s have it epoxied over. If your screw is not epoxied over try adjusting it. Some air bubbles may throw the FITV off and keep the valve open, so bleed your coolant by draining small amounts and pouring more in

Take the 3 10mm bolts out of the FITV (you don’t have to take off the coolant lines). Then take off the two 8mm bolts from the plate on the back of the FITV. Once the plate is off you will see a white plastic thing, screw that all the way in. This causes a lot of people’s hunting idle problems (it’s a source of a vacuum leak). Put the FITV back on and start the car up. If it still idles badly continue onto the next step.

Here is a write-up on the FITV. Clean the IACV screen(s). See Oz’s write up on G2IC. Make sure your car is completely warmed up. With it running, take the intake off the TB. There are 2 holes right in front of the throttle plate; these are the holes that feed the IACV (top hole) and the FITV (bottom hole). With your finger, cover up the bottom hole (there should not be any suction if your car is at operating temperature). If the idle goes down, the FITV is to blame; either get a new one or take it apart and screw the valve completely closed (I have only read of people doing this, so I don’t know exactly how). Also, you will have to keep the engine speed up yourself when the car is cold.

Next cover both holes up with your fingers. The car should sputter and die (or almost die). If it does then the source of your faulty idle is the IACV. Replace it. If you want you can test the IACV. Shut the car off and put Positive battery voltage to the black/yellow terminal (on the valve) and momentarily touch ground to the blue/yellow side. When doing this the valve should click, if it doesn’t, replace it. If when covering both holes the car still has a high idle, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Again check the IM and TB nuts. You can spray carburetor ******* around those areas and if any gets sucked in (the engine will rev) you have found your leak. Another source of vacuum leaks are where the FITV and IACV connect to the IM. Either replace the gaskets or use silicone gasket sealant. If nothing has worked you should test your TPS. Probe the middle wire on the TPS plug (with the key on but not running, and the plug still connected to the sensor) with the positive probe on the voltmeter, and the negative probe to ground. You should have .5v with a fully closed throttle plate and 4.8v with it wide open. If the TPS is off, replace it. If, still, nothing has worked you might want to try a new ECU. This also is very unlikely, but worth a try. So now, if it still idles badly, go through the steps again.

It is very unlikely that you will end up needing to do all of these steps, you will usually have your problem fixed within the first few steps, but these are all of the possible causes to your problem. Remember, if you have problems with all of these abbreviations then search online, the best place to look is www.honda-tech.com, I’ve found most of the abbreviations in Helms and Chilton manuals before, so you can look there also.

Tools Required:
Soldering Iron
Solder
Needle Nose Pliers
Cigarette Lighter
Scissors
Heatshield material
Zip ties
Double stick tape
Electrical tape
Duct tape

Step 1: Disconnect and remove the bulbs you already have in there. This is typically an easy task on most cars, but some don’t give you much room, you may find yourself having to move things around a bit which is beyond the scope of this DIY.

Disconnect and remove exisiting bulbs

Step 2: Your kit will most likely come with some connectors and some wires (red and black), these wires then go into some metal prongs that then slide into the connector that fits your stock socket (i.e. 9006, H1, 9005, etc…). What you’ll need to is solder those wires to the metal tabs, this insures a good connection and will help against flickering or short circuiting. Take your time here this can be a delicate process.

Solder wires to the connectors

Step 3: Now slide those soldered metal ends into the connector, you’ll want to uses some needle nose pliers to grab the other end and pull it until it gently pops into place. Now, wrap the end of the connector to the wires with electrical tape, this again helps with short circuiting and/or shorting out. It also helps keep things in place.

Insert prongs into connector

Step 4: Now mount your ballasts someplace where there wont be much or any water intrusion and as far away from heat as possible. Use zip ties for this instead of drilling into anything because you want to relocate these at another time.

Attach ballasts

Step 5: Connect the ignitor module and locate it someplace just like the ballast, as little heat and water as possible. Insert your HID bulbs into your headlights being careful not to touch the bulbs with your bare hands (if you do wipe them down with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip).

Plug in the ignitor

Step 6: Connect the plugs and turn on your headlights, if they work hooray! if they don’t try again. Remember it’s not good to run HID’s on just battery power alone, if you want to stare into the light start the car up. Just be sure you have proper ventilation!

Step 7: Now if you’re like me when I did this you couldn’t find a good spot to mount the ballasts away from a lot of heat. So here’s where some heat wrap comes into play. What I used was a starter heat shield from Summit Racing. Measure the dimensions of your ballast then trace those dimensions onto your heat wrap, get out the scissors and start cutting.

Heat wrap cutouts

Step 8: Cut several squares of double stick tape and place them onto the ballasts then stick your cuts outs to those squares. Then wrap the edges where the different layers meet with duct tape (alot like wrapping a gift). That’s it, now your ballasts can withstand some serious heat for those hot summer days idling at a light.

Wrap with heat wrap

I hope you found this DIY helpful! If you did please forward it on to your friends or simply use the bookmarks below! Thanks!

Tools Required:
CT provided tool for removing the white ball at the end of the shifter
Phillips Head screw driver
hair dryer
pliers
Vaseline

Step 1: Removal of the center console. Open the top pocket just below the radio, then place your hands on either side inside the console and pull straight back, once the pocket is free remove the LED clipped to the top and set the pocket aside.

Using your hair dryer warm the outer edges (top, left, right, bottom) of the center console trim, this will make the plastic more supple and less prone to cracking. Once the plastic is warm open up the bottom pocket then press your fingers against the top ledge of the center console and pinch in towards yourself and gently pull up. Once these clips pop free slide your fingers down the side of the console gently releasing the rest of the clips. Now reach under the front and disconnect the seat warmer harnesses.

Remove the shift knob, you’ll need to use your pliers to hold the lock nut still while you twist the shift knob. Be sure to wrap the ends of your pliers in a few layers of duct tape to make sure you leave no unsightly scratches behind. Now the center console with the shift boot should slide right off, you will need to disconnect a small metal clip at the base of the e-brake boot to get the boot off with the console.

Using your phillips head screw driver unscrew the 4 screws holding the bottom pocket in place, then all 6 of the screws holding down the center console. Now open the bottom drawer of the armrest, remove the non-skid insert and unscrew the two phillips screws holding it down. Once all of the screws are removed slide your fingers under the back of the armrest and pull up and back towards the passenger seat and the center console is now removed.

Step 2: Removal of the shifter. Refer to the CT diagrams for this step, however you will most likely have to cut the zip ties holding the cables to the side of it, just user regular zip ties to attach those cables when you reinstall to prevent little rattles. Also the large U shaped bracket at the front of the shifter will require you to use your pliers, remove it while gently pulling up and wiggling side to side.

Step 3: Removal of the white ball and install of the CT short shifter adapter. Now that the shifter is sitting in your lap you need to remove that white ball at the base of the shifter. Heat the ball with your hair dryer and then use the CT provided tool for its removal, careful it could just pop off into the air and if you loose it you’ll need to get a new one. Now to install the CT adapter, wipe down the stock shifter with the Loctite that CT provides, now slide the CT adapter on to the end and push until you hear a little click, then tighten the hex wrench screws with the hex key CT provides. Now heat the white ball again and apply vaseline to the ball on the end of the CT adapter, now snap the ball back on.

Step 4: Re-install. Just follow the CT instructions and these in reverse and you’re good to go, enjoy your 38% reduction in throw.

If you have questions feel free to post up a comment, I’ll do my best to answer all of your questions. If you found this pose useful or helpful please use the social bookmark links below and share this post with your friends!

What You Need (4th Gen. Accord):
1. Stock Mounts
2. 93-95 Prelude Header (If using stock exhaust)
3. Stock Harness (Modified)
4. Accord Axles (5-speed or auto axles, whatever transmission you’re using)
5. Oil Pressure Sensor from F22 (Plug is different on H22 version)

Wiring (4th Gen. Accord):
1. VTEC Solenoid: Pin A4
2. VTEC Pressure Switch: Pin D6
3. Knock Sensor: Pin D3
4. Secondary Intake Solenoid: Pin A17

What You Need (5th Gen. Accord):
Same as above plus:
1. 92-95 Prelude Driver Side Mount. (Ground down to fit)

Wiring (5th Gen. Accord):
Same as above plus:
1. Swap Pin A6 with Pin A11.

If you’re using a 97+ H22 and are putting it into an OBD1 Accord (90-95), you are going to need:
1. OBD1 Injectors
2. OBD1 ECU
3. OBD1 Distributor

Instructions:
First, evacuate the AC system prior to starting this swap. Have an experienced shop do this to prevent any freon from escaping into the environment. Freon is used in your air conditioning system and is very bad for the atmosphere being that every one cvc (Freon) destroys 100 million O3 (atmosphere). Now that your environmentally safe, remove the battery, disconnect the power steering lines, radiator hoses, and front AC line. Remove the radiator, the power steering pump, alternator, and the AC compressor. Disconnect all the wiring plugs and label them if necessary. Remove the front wheels and disconnect the axles. Disconnect all the mounts; make sure you have the engine crane on the motor before removing the motor mounts. Now, remove the engine from the engine bay.

Next, prepare the Prelude engine by replacing any worn parts such as the timing belt and water pump. This is easier now that the engine is out of the car. Transfer the Accord wiring harness to the Prelude engine. Make sure you plug the same plugs into the same sensors on both engines. You will probably need to extend some wires like those for the alternator part of the harness. If the Prelude engine came with a harness, snip the plugs off of it for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch and knock sensor. These are the wires you will be adding. Attach the Accord half shaft at this point. If the engine has a Prelude half shaft remove it and use the Accord one. The Prelude one will not work. Remove the front, rear, and driver side mounts from the Prelude engine. Place the front, rear, and drivers mount from the Accord engine onto the Prelude engine. For the transmission, use the mount that corresponds to the transmission you are using.

Now you are almost ready to drop the engine in, but first you must prepare the engine bay. Begin by swapping out the power steering line from the Prelude one, then run three wires through the firewall to correspond to the wires that you are adding for the VTEC system. Run four wires through the firewall if your car is an LX or DX because you will be missing one in the distributor. I am not sure which wire it is exactly, but I know the LX and DX are missing the one wire. Add two more wires if you are converting from Automatic to Manual for the reverse sensor in the transmission.

If you are doing an automatic to manual swap, this will be the point where you will do this. Unplug and remove the shifter and all of its components from the inside of the car. Replace it with the Manual shifter assembly. It should bolt right in using the same bolt holes. Now remove the brake pedal assembly and replace it with the manual brake pedal. Next remove the two bolts holding the cover plate that covers the holes for the clutch master cylinder and pedal assembly. Put the clutch master cylinder and pedal assembly together through the holes in the firewall. Next run the clutch hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder along the firewall and the passenger side frame rail to the clutch dampener assembly. You will have to drill and tap holes to mount the dampener assembly.

At this point, you can drop the motor right into the car using the four mounts. Install the appropriate axles to the transmission and hub. Connect the wires that you added as well as the other harness plugs. Attach the new AC line, power steering lines, clutch line from the dampener to the transmission, and radiator lines. Attach the shifter cables at this point, but run them over the power steering rack or else they will be too short and won’t reach the shifter inside the car. Plug the ECU into the factory harness and wire up the VTEC wire to the appropriate pin outs. This is where the Chilton’s or Hayes manual comes in handy.

Finally, if you have converted from automatic to manual, you will have to wire up a starter relay, jump the shifter lock wire, and jump the key lock wire. You will also need to attach the reverse sensor leads to the reverse lights in the shifter wiring harness. These are all in the plugs that you removed from the Automatic shifter assembly. You will also need to switch a few wires around if you plan to use your cruise control. It’s all in the wiring diagrams in the repair manuals. Don’t worry about the automatic control unit that is next to the ECU. You can just unplug it and remove it. You don’t need it for the manual transmission.

Now that you’ve finished, you’ll be able to tell the differences in power from old to new. The Prelude’s engine will suit you a lot better with its higher performance, and its very good economy. Depending on how many miles were on your stock Accord’s engine, you might see an increase in fuel economy with the new more powerful engine. This is due to most of the engine swaps that come from Japan only having 40,000 miles or less on them, which means your engine should be in good working order and good condition.

*CT Engineering rear sway bar will only clear the OEM or CT Engineering exhaust. Progress will clear ANY aftermarket cat-back and will install the same way as this DIY shows

Tools Required:

• Metric and standard socket set
• Metric hex key set
• Metric crescent wrench set
• Floor jack with stands
• Silicon grease if needed

Step 1:
Raise the car up and position it on stands. There is a jack point in the middle of the car I believe either just before or just after the gas can, I can’t remember at the moment. Look under the car and you can’t miss it. Use the OEM jack points on either side of the rear passenger for your stands.

Step 2:
Now under the car remove the endlink nuts. You’ll need your hex key set here, simply insert the proper sized hex key into the bolt, then use your crescent wrench to twist the nut while holding the bolt secure with the hex key. The nuts could be pretty well siezed on if you have a high mileage car or live in a climate where they use salt or other de-icers. Just use some WD-40, PB Blaster, Silicon spray lubricant, or whatever to free up the nuts.

Step 3:
Remove the two bolts that hold the driver side muffler in place, this is what will allow you to clear the exhaust when removing the OEM rear sway bar and installing the CT rear sway bar. Be careful not to strip the nuts/bolts and not to damage the gasket. Make sure the exhaust is cold before attempting this.

Step 4:
Remove the OEM brackets that hold the sway bar in place and let it rest on the exhaust. Be sure to keep these bolts because you’ll be reusing them.

Step 5:
Slide the rear sway bar to the front of the vehicle, then down the passenger side, then angle it and slide it between the exhaust where we detached the driver side muffler. I cannot explain this in much greater detail, but trust me it works. It would help to have a friend with you on this to keep the muffler and the exhaust pipe seperate while you slide the sway bar through.

Step 6:
This is the same as step 5, only opposite and with your new rear sway bar.

Step 7:
Re-attach the endlinks to your new rear sway bar but do not torque them down yet. Lube up the bushings supplied by CT engineering and use their supplied brackets and the OEM bracket bolts and attach the rear sway bar to the mounts. Do not torque these down yet.

Step 8:
Make sure the bar is even between the brackets and side to side (with Progress there are two washers welded to the bar so you don’t have to do this part) and torque down the endlinks to the specs provided by CT.

Step 9:
Torque the brackets and re-install the driver side muffler. Double check the torque on your brackets and endlinks then lower the car back to the ground.

Step 10:
Gently bounce the rear of the car to ensure there are no squeaks and your all set.

ALWAYS refer to the supplied instructions when installing any parts.

Tools Required:

• Power Drill
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Hair Dryer

Step 1:
Remove the large pocket just below the radio by placing your fingers on the inside bottom of the bin and pulling towards you. This should not require much force so if you pulling with all your might you must be doing something wrong.

Remove large center console pocket

Step 2:
Remove the shift knob. This is fairly straight forward, righty-tighty and lefty-loosy. If you a manual tranny driver you need some pliers to hold the lock nut tight under the shift knob.

Step 3:
Open the bottom pocket and take a hair dryer and heat up all of the center console trim (around the shifter, e-brake, etc…), this will make the plastic a bit softer and easier to work with. At the top of the trim (in front of the shifter) take both hands and put your fingers behind the ledge and pinch inwards towards the shifter. Gently pop the front clips of the console trim and then run your fingers along the sides of the trim popping the rest of the clips. Be careful here, you can put stress marks or cracks in the trim if you aren’t gentle.

Remove the center console trim

Step 4:
Remove the 4 phillips head screws that hold the bottom pocket in place to remove it, disconnect the auxiliary power from the back much like the seat warmer harnesses. Remove the rest of the philips screws that hold the console down. Don’t forget the two in the armrest! They are covered by a non-slip pad. Once you have all of the screws removed pull up the back of the console and this should free the clips holding it to the dash.

Step 5:
Using a power drill, drill 1/4″ hole inside the armrest to route your auxiliary cable through, be sure this hole is toward the very bottom of the console.

Drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the armrest

Step 6:
Drill a 1/4″ hole into the not an ashtray spot from behind, if you look closely you’ll see a perfect spot for this.

Drill a 1/4" hole into the not an ashtray area

Step 7:
Insert your auxiliary wire and reassemble the center console.

Hook up the iPod dock auxiliary input to your cable and rest it in the not an ashtray spot, you’re all done! Congratulations!

Complete - TSX Poorman's iPod

Would you like to contribute to the DIY section? Contact Chris at the bottom of this post and ask how!