Click here to read Monopoly Man’s post on swapping a H22 engine into a 90 – 93 Accord.

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Tools Required:
Soldering Iron
Solder
Needle Nose Pliers
Cigarette Lighter
Scissors
Heatshield material
Zip ties
Double stick tape
Electrical tape
Duct tape

Step 1: Disconnect and remove the bulbs you already have in there. This is typically an easy task on most cars, but some don’t give you much room, you may find yourself having to move things around a bit which is beyond the scope of this DIY.

Disconnect and remove exisiting bulbs

Step 2: Your kit will most likely come with some connectors and some wires (red and black), these wires then go into some metal prongs that then slide into the connector that fits your stock socket (i.e. 9006, H1, 9005, etc…). What you’ll need to is solder those wires to the metal tabs, this insures a good connection and will help against flickering or short circuiting. Take your time here this can be a delicate process.

Solder wires to the connectors

Step 3: Now slide those soldered metal ends into the connector, you’ll want to uses some needle nose pliers to grab the other end and pull it until it gently pops into place. Now, wrap the end of the connector to the wires with electrical tape, this again helps with short circuiting and/or shorting out. It also helps keep things in place.

Insert prongs into connector

Step 4: Now mount your ballasts someplace where there wont be much or any water intrusion and as far away from heat as possible. Use zip ties for this instead of drilling into anything because you want to relocate these at another time.

Attach ballasts

Step 5: Connect the ignitor module and locate it someplace just like the ballast, as little heat and water as possible. Insert your HID bulbs into your headlights being careful not to touch the bulbs with your bare hands (if you do wipe them down with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip).

Plug in the ignitor

Step 6: Connect the plugs and turn on your headlights, if they work hooray! if they don’t try again. Remember it’s not good to run HID’s on just battery power alone, if you want to stare into the light start the car up. Just be sure you have proper ventilation!

Step 7: Now if you’re like me when I did this you couldn’t find a good spot to mount the ballasts away from a lot of heat. So here’s where some heat wrap comes into play. What I used was a starter heat shield from Summit Racing. Measure the dimensions of your ballast then trace those dimensions onto your heat wrap, get out the scissors and start cutting.

Heat wrap cutouts

Step 8: Cut several squares of double stick tape and place them onto the ballasts then stick your cuts outs to those squares. Then wrap the edges where the different layers meet with duct tape (alot like wrapping a gift). That’s it, now your ballasts can withstand some serious heat for those hot summer days idling at a light.

Wrap with heat wrap

I hope you found this DIY helpful! If you did please forward it on to your friends or simply use the bookmarks below! Thanks!

*CT Engineering rear sway bar will only clear the OEM or CT Engineering exhaust. Progress will clear ANY aftermarket cat-back and will install the same way as this DIY shows

Tools Required:

• Metric and standard socket set
• Metric hex key set
• Metric crescent wrench set
• Floor jack with stands
• Silicon grease if needed

Step 1:
Raise the car up and position it on stands. There is a jack point in the middle of the car I believe either just before or just after the gas can, I can’t remember at the moment. Look under the car and you can’t miss it. Use the OEM jack points on either side of the rear passenger for your stands.

Step 2:
Now under the car remove the endlink nuts. You’ll need your hex key set here, simply insert the proper sized hex key into the bolt, then use your crescent wrench to twist the nut while holding the bolt secure with the hex key. The nuts could be pretty well siezed on if you have a high mileage car or live in a climate where they use salt or other de-icers. Just use some WD-40, PB Blaster, Silicon spray lubricant, or whatever to free up the nuts.

Step 3:
Remove the two bolts that hold the driver side muffler in place, this is what will allow you to clear the exhaust when removing the OEM rear sway bar and installing the CT rear sway bar. Be careful not to strip the nuts/bolts and not to damage the gasket. Make sure the exhaust is cold before attempting this.

Step 4:
Remove the OEM brackets that hold the sway bar in place and let it rest on the exhaust. Be sure to keep these bolts because you’ll be reusing them.

Step 5:
Slide the rear sway bar to the front of the vehicle, then down the passenger side, then angle it and slide it between the exhaust where we detached the driver side muffler. I cannot explain this in much greater detail, but trust me it works. It would help to have a friend with you on this to keep the muffler and the exhaust pipe seperate while you slide the sway bar through.

Step 6:
This is the same as step 5, only opposite and with your new rear sway bar.

Step 7:
Re-attach the endlinks to your new rear sway bar but do not torque them down yet. Lube up the bushings supplied by CT engineering and use their supplied brackets and the OEM bracket bolts and attach the rear sway bar to the mounts. Do not torque these down yet.

Step 8:
Make sure the bar is even between the brackets and side to side (with Progress there are two washers welded to the bar so you don’t have to do this part) and torque down the endlinks to the specs provided by CT.

Step 9:
Torque the brackets and re-install the driver side muffler. Double check the torque on your brackets and endlinks then lower the car back to the ground.

Step 10:
Gently bounce the rear of the car to ensure there are no squeaks and your all set.

ALWAYS refer to the supplied instructions when installing any parts.

Tools Required:

• Power Drill
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Hair Dryer

Step 1:
Remove the large pocket just below the radio by placing your fingers on the inside bottom of the bin and pulling towards you. This should not require much force so if you pulling with all your might you must be doing something wrong.

Remove large center console pocket

Step 2:
Remove the shift knob. This is fairly straight forward, righty-tighty and lefty-loosy. If you a manual tranny driver you need some pliers to hold the lock nut tight under the shift knob.

Step 3:
Open the bottom pocket and take a hair dryer and heat up all of the center console trim (around the shifter, e-brake, etc…), this will make the plastic a bit softer and easier to work with. At the top of the trim (in front of the shifter) take both hands and put your fingers behind the ledge and pinch inwards towards the shifter. Gently pop the front clips of the console trim and then run your fingers along the sides of the trim popping the rest of the clips. Be careful here, you can put stress marks or cracks in the trim if you aren’t gentle.

Remove the center console trim

Step 4:
Remove the 4 phillips head screws that hold the bottom pocket in place to remove it, disconnect the auxiliary power from the back much like the seat warmer harnesses. Remove the rest of the philips screws that hold the console down. Don’t forget the two in the armrest! They are covered by a non-slip pad. Once you have all of the screws removed pull up the back of the console and this should free the clips holding it to the dash.

Step 5:
Using a power drill, drill 1/4″ hole inside the armrest to route your auxiliary cable through, be sure this hole is toward the very bottom of the console.

Drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the armrest

Step 6:
Drill a 1/4″ hole into the not an ashtray spot from behind, if you look closely you’ll see a perfect spot for this.

Drill a 1/4" hole into the not an ashtray area

Step 7:
Insert your auxiliary wire and reassemble the center console.

Hook up the iPod dock auxiliary input to your cable and rest it in the not an ashtray spot, you’re all done! Congratulations!

Complete - TSX Poorman's iPod